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Thread: inkjet ctp

  1. #106
    Donor phellipeturunen is on a distinguished road
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    good rip is

    Chromedot Plate for isi Povareskim, try this

  2. #107
    Banned marcus is on a distinguished road
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    I have a 7890 with a colorgate cracked and the plate in a heatransfer.
    I print with a speedmaster SM52 and the print quality is good, but not excellent,
    the little problem is the water, more water.

  3. #108
    Banned marcus is on a distinguished road
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    459x525 for SM52 2,50 euro from VIM

  4. #109
    Banned marcus is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by subosusi View Post
    4 color can print good
    Can print good, but at mine i have made a big position to block the plate well, with the lock position they give the allignament thereis'nt good. We can do more time.

  5. #110
    Banned marcus is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by subosusi View Post
    you check total ink, and check epson head narrow or standard
    I have tested EFI and COLORGATE, the Colorgate Super Rosette have more quality that efi rip. There isn't doubt. But colorgate cost 3.500 euro and efi 1.400.

  6. #111
    Donor colormatters is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by subosusi View Post
    good software for epson CTP is Wasatch SP softrip
    I agree, it has more functionality and more control, you can also use stochastic screen upto 17 microns with 1440x1440 and 8 microns with 2880x2880

  7. #112
    Donor colormatters is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by corkymac View Post
    I guess every CTP has it's market. It just depends on what quality needs to be achieved.
    yes it really depends on the market you are in, specially at our place where most of our customer does not consider the very high quality print such as the laser or thermal ctp, inkjet ctp is already acceptable, we do explain it to them that it won't achieve same quality as the laser does

  8. #113
    Banned arash is on a distinguished road
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    Exclamation 180 lpi

    Quote Originally Posted by mzbdn View Post
    I am currently really use inkjet CTP, the desktop machine is EPSON1390 and a 7900 machines, 7900 of the normal print a 12 minutes (linked to the AM 180 lpi) did not PASS pattern, 1390 linked to the AM 160 lpi without twill, A3 to 14 minutes . Drive is based on the Founder PSPNT3.0. Interchangeable ink channel. MEDIABOP software is also good, can be linked to the AM 200 lpi, to meet the printing requirements.Other software is also played, but not always hang on the 180 lpi is not smooth, and PASS pattern.
    Film using a waterproof film, using a water-based ink plate.
    hi
    thanks for your useful information
    1. do you use there special plate (in order to get AM 180 lpi) or not?
    2. if not do you by special brand of ps plate? (if you can name it)
    3. if not do you load ps plate by default or apply something into surface of plate?

    thanks in advance

  9. #114
    Donor colormatters is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by arash View Post
    hi
    thanks for your useful information
    1. do you use there special plate (in order to get AM 180 lpi) or not?
    2. if not do you by special brand of ps plate? (if you can name it)
    3. if not do you load ps plate by default or apply something into surface of plate?

    thanks in advance
    If you are really interested on printing on a PS Positive plate, look for PS Positive plate with a special coating on it that the inks will adhere to, I happened to have used some of those plates but then my supplier run out, now I'm thinking of what kind of coating was that so I could make my one my self using an ordinary and standard PS Positive plate.

    I've tried coating it with clear glue with a little water mixture coat it evenly let it dried and tried printing on it, I must say with a little more experiment this could really work

  10. #115
    Junior Member HDBGFAN is on a distinguished road
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    I thought I would come on to this forum to see what people were writing about the PW3000 and write of my own experience of owning.

    My company bought a platewriter 3000 in the last 3 months. It replaced laser CTP technology from Presstek - a vector FL52 system. While that was good the laser failed and the washing of plates was terrible despite regular thorough weekly maintenance!

    The Glunz & Jensen is ok for four colour work, any job with pictures will look amazing because you can't see the dot due to the screening. Solids are fine and so are full out solids depending on the rolling power of your press. Maintenance is simple, the cost of plates could be better and ink tends to last well.

    However, there are some problems. Tints are not smooth and amazing like laser technology, they often appear grainy and patchy especially greys and lighter shades. I don't know if it's our 4 colour press or not but when I look at the colour bars after a press minder brings me a sheet the 85% is always way down on where it should be when measured with a densitometer. We even calibrated it a few times on different stocks to hit the right points of the curve better on new profiles. If you put a plate straight to press from the machine it will scum so you have to wipe it or leave the plate for an hour before use.

    The RIP supplied has an intel I3 processor and can handle jobs but takes much longer than dot screening because it has to rip files at 2800x2800 dpi. The technical guy said this wouldn't improve much with an I7 and more ram. It's just that way the system works. This can take a while but you can do something else in the meantime... We have a workflow but it didn't come with preflight/stabillizer and all the other nice things you get with pitstop. Only after selling our existing software/hardware did they tell us they would be omitted with the PW3000 package. The RIP annoyingly won't let you 'Send selected file only' even though it is there. So any plates you do not need you must be deleted before output. Otherwise it will send the full set of CMYK plates down to the printer. You can set up other channels though for K only or spot colours.

    Registration is good as long as you hold the plate at the back end prior to the pins dropping, don't push it. You have to manually load plates to the pins then manually release before putting them through the halogen lamp and gumming tank below.

    Sales staff did not seem to know much about the machine and technical support (in the UK) is limited.

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  13. #116
    Junior Member rescata is on a distinguished road
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    Quote Originally Posted by HDBGFAN View Post

    However, there are some problems. Tints are not smooth and amazing like laser technology, they often appear grainy and patchy especially greys and lighter shades.
    How did gradients fare?

  14. #117
    Junior Member HDBGFAN is on a distinguished road
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    It's acceptable and sellable. The funny thing is that images print far better than conventional dot screening but tints and gradients are not as good. They're just ok, they have that printed on a inkjet printer look - this isn't noticeable on f/c pictures. I'm being overly critical because printers' are when it comes to print quality.

    In a ideal world a mix of both types of screening would be amazing but that isn't an option - I guess it all comes down to price and where your business is at.

    This is the type of machine you would buy if you have a 1,2 or even a 4 col press but can't afford a quality laser platemaker. It's relatively cost effective and better than any polyester plate based equipment. Metal > polyester plates.

    Don't even look at the lower end G&J platewriters if you're doing 4 colour work, they don't offer the registration accuracy and are slower.

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